Sewing-machine



(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

' A. MO'REHOUSE."

SEWING MAOHINE.

No. 356,413." Patented Jan. 18, 1887.

INVENTOI? A TTO/M/EY N, PETERS. Fholo-Liihognpher. Washinglon. n. cy

(No Model.) 2 SheetQ-Sheet 2.

. A. MOREHO'USE.

' SEWING MACHINE.

N0. 356,413. Patented Jan. 18, 1887'.

WITNESSES.

ATTORNEY T0 aZZ whom it may concern-.-

llnrrnn STATES PA'rnN'r @rricn.

AARON MOREHOUSE, OF DANBURY, CONN, ASSIGNOI? TO THE HAT SWEAT MANUFACTURING COMPANY, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

SEVVING-MAC'HINE.

EPECIEICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 356,413. dated January 18, 1887.

Application-filed June 18. 1886. Serial No. 205,538. (No model.)

Be it known that I, AARON MoREHoUsE, a citizen of the United States, residing at Danbury, in the county of Fairfield and State of Connecticut, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a description.

My invention relates to improvements in that class of sewing-machines which use two needle-threads. In such machines the needles are usually set diagonally, or the material to be sewed is fed at an angle oblique or perpendicular to the line of motion of the shuttle or other device for locking the stitch by means of a third thread, and all the machines with which I am acquainted lock the stitch by means of a third thread. I form my stitch by means of thread from two needles only in a sewing-inachinein which the needle'bar, presser-foot, and feed mechanism are similar to those which are already in common use and moved by similar driving mechanism; but, although the relative length of the needles is not of the essence of my invention,'I preferably make use of two needles of unequal length, set so that the plane passing through both their axes will be at right angles with the line of stitch, each needle having its independent thread and the necessary tension devices; and to interlock the threads beneath the cloth or material being sewed I employ a loopinghook of peculiar construction vibrating about a horizontal axis in a vertical plane, cutting the line of stitch at right angles, or nearly so. The looping-hook above referred to acts to interloop belowthe cloth the loops produced by one needle into a concatenated chain, while at the same time it interloops therewith the loops produced by the other needle.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a side elevation of a portion of a sewing-machine constructed and arranged to work in accordance with my invention, portions ofthe frame, the arms, and

the driving mechanism being omitted, as they possess no peculiar features. Fig. 2 is a front view of the needles. Fig. 3 is a sketch of the stitch, showing how the two lines of stitches above the material are united below into a chain having diagonal or whip stitches. Fig. 4 is aside elevation of the reciprocating hook, showing its loop-opener and the groove through which one of the needles passes when the hook is in a certain position. Fig. 5 is a plan of that portion of the machine beneath the cloth-plate, showing the feed-surface, thelooping-hook, and mechanism for operating it. Figs. 6 to 14, inclusive,are diagrams represent ing the relative positions of the needles and the looping-hook, showing the method of forming the stitch. Figs. 15 to 16 represent the upper andlower faces of ahatsweat stitched upon this machine. Figs. 17 and 18 are two different perspective views of the looping-hook.

The diagonal or whip portion of the stitch produced upon the under side of the material runs from a needle-perforation in one row to the next succeeding needle-perforation in advance upon the other and parallel row of stitching.

A is the base of the machine. Ais the stationary arm or bracket; B, the cloth-plate; G,

thev needle-arm; D, the presser-foot; d, thefoot-bar; E, the driving-shaft; F, the needlebar; f, short needle; j, long needle; H, hook having a curved end, h, and a loop-opener, h.

This hook is secured to a small horizontal which prevents the said cam-cylinder from tipping. A connecting-rod, J, is pivoted to this block Z at one end, and at the other to a screw forming a crank-pin on the disk O,which is secured on the end of the driving-shaft E,

the whole construction being such that the rotation of the shaft E causes the sleeve to reciprocate, and this reciprocation of the sleeve causes the hook to vibrate, because its camgroove incloses a pin, 1*, attached to and projecting from the shaft I. The hook Hhas a period of rest corresponding to the time that the pin lies in the straight portion of the camgroove.

I have thus described my mode of giving motion to the vibrating hook; but it may be moved by means of other trains of mechanism causing it to move insubstantially the same manner.

K is the feed-bar having the feed-surface k, K the slide-bar operating the feed, and k the lever for regulating the length of stitch.

The looping-hook may be more particularly described as consisting of a body or thick part, H, somewhat triangular in shape, and pro vided with a hole for the shaft L, this part being the support of the acting part of the hook. To this body a thin curved and pointed blade, h, is secured at the point of the body farthest from its center of vibration. The face of the blade or hook proper, h, is perpendicular to the line of seam, and its outer edge is preferably a portion of a circle struck from the center of vibration of II as a center. The curvature of the inner edge of the blade h is such as to give it a good base at its point of attachment to the body or thick portion H. This width of base also assists theloop opener or spreader h in spreading the loops.

The loop-opener h is a thin piece of metal of a somewhat triangular form continuous with the blade, and forming a groove which is in line with a small notch in the end of the body H. The piece h runs but a small portion of the length of h and tapers to a point, and the two meet at one point, but are separated by a groove at the heel of the loopopener. The function of this loop-opener h is to spread the loops, and at the same time permit one of the needles 1 to pass in the groove between it and the hook it for a short distance in certain positions of the loopinghook, so that the needle may enter loops seized and held by the blade.

The operation of the machine is as follows: The material to be stitched isintroduced'preferably through proper guides and beneath the presser-foot. It is fed forward by the feed mechanism in the usual way. The needles descend and pass through the fabric. The vibrating hook at the same time retreats until the needles have reached the lowest point of their stroke. The needles then begin to ascend and form loops. The hook advances in the direction indicated by the arrow in Fig. 7 and enters both loops and spreads them. The hook continues to advance until the pin upon the hook-shaft I enters the straight part of the cam-groove on sleeve L. Then the hook remains at rest until the pin has traversed this portion of the cam-groove in both directions. The needles in the meantime rise to their highest position, and again descend until they almost reach the top of the hook. The pin 1" then enters the spiral part of the cam-groove, and forces the shaft L and the hook H, attached thereto,to vibrate in a reverse direction. Just before the hook commences to move backward the short needle with its loop enters the two loops spread and held by the looping-hook, the needle passing into the groove and carrying its own loop of thread through the two loops held by the hook and spreader. The hook then takes the position shownin Fig. 11, both loops surrounding the shorter needle, f. The needles begin 'to ascend, and the hook begins to turn toward them, entering the new loops on the needles before the said needles have risen above the hook. The hook retreats, holding these new loops until they are the stitch, I will describe the diagrams 6 to 14, inclusive.

In Fig. 6 the threaded needles are shown above the cloth-plate ready to penetrate the fabric for the first stitch. The hook is at rest at its farthest backward point. In the position shown in Fig. 7 the needles have penetrated the fabric and descended to their lowest position and are starting up, forming first loops, which are being entered and spread by the looping-hook moving forward. In Fig. 8 the needles,having reached theirhighestpoint, have turned to descend, and are again ready to penetrate the fabric. The feed has carried the fabric forward the length of one stitch, and the looping-hook,holding both loops below the cloth,is at its period of rest preparatory to its return-stroke. In Fig. 9the needles are shown moving downward, the short one just entering both loops held by the hook and opened for the needle by the loop opener or spreader h. The hook has started on its backward trip. In Fig. 10 the short needle is shown as having passed with its thread completely through both loops, and the hook, retreating still farther, is about to leave both loops on the short needle f. In Fig. 11 the needles are shown as having again reached their lowest point and starting upward with both loops slipped from the hook and drawn up around the short needle, with the hook again on its forward stroke and new loops forming on the needles ready for the hook to enter, as is shown in the next figure, 12. The loop on the short needle f is forming below the two loops, which are nearly around the said needle, and are drawn up against the lower side of the cloth. In Fig. 12 the needles have ascended a little higher, forming second loops, which the hook is about entering in a similar position to that which is shown in Fig. 7. In Fig. 13 the hook is still moving forward, retaining the second loops, the needles are still rising, and the short needle just leaving the first loops on the under side of the fabric, where they are held in place by the second loop from the short needle f, which passes through both of them. In Fig. 14 the IIO needles are shown as having risen .to their highest point and again descended to their lowest, passing through both of. the second loops as the hook leaves them, similar to Fig. 10. The fabric has in the meantime, under the influence of the feed, moved forward the space necessary for another stitch.

The operation continues as above described, completing the seam.

This machine is more especially intended for the sewing of hat-sweats, and to this end the usual guides to keep the reed, reed-cover, and leather in proper position to be secured together by the stitching are employed.

I do not show or explain these guides in further detail, because they are not essential to the working of the machine.

I have shown the machine constructed so I that the leather or other goods passes under the arm, the working-edge being outward; but

the position may be reversed, so that the leather is outside, the working-edge then being inward, in which case the longer needle should be outside and the hook should point outward.

Having now fully described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. In a sewing-machine, two eye-pointed needles vertically reciprocating, and so ar-' lines will cut the line of feed and line of stitch substantially at right angles, and means for operating the needles, in combination with a vibrating looping hook or blade and loop opener or spreader having between it and the blade a groove or needle-channel, with means for operating the blade and loop-opener, for the purpose hereinbefore specified.-

2. In a sewing-machine, the combination of the looping hook or blade and its spreader and the slotted sleeve and pin and means for operating the same. whereby the hook and spreader may be vibrated in a vertical plane, in connection with suitable mechanism for forming the stitch, as herein'described and shown.

In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand.

AARON MOREHOUSE.

Witnesses:

DAVID B. BOOTH, ANNIE D. J ONES. 

